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Guardian Life & Style (US) • Jan. 15, 2026, 1:37 a.m.
My favourite Lebanese restaurant has closed and I am bereft. Abdul’s, I’m sorry I took you for granted | Emily Mulligan
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For decades, the Sydney institution promised smooth hummus, curt service and unchanging decor. It was my family’s alternate living room.
Where to turn to now? What is the name for the grief of losing a restaurant?
Surely the Germans have a word for it. Many Sydneysiders will be keening and lighting candles for Abdul’s, a beloved Lebanese restaurant with threadbare carpets, laminated menus, a man who could roll a kebab for the Olympics and the most delicious food.
Where to turn to now? What is the name for the grief of losing a restaurant?
Surely the Germans have a word for it. Many Sydneysiders will be keening and lighting candles for Abdul’s, a beloved Lebanese restaurant with threadbare carpets, laminated menus, a man who could roll a kebab for the Olympics and the most delicious food.
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